There’s so much flux in fashion right now with a barrage of designer departures and new appointments (official and rumored) at the big houses. With all this movement happening, it looks like this year is set to be an interesting one for fashion (both the ‘industry’ and the clothes themselves); a good chunk of luxury fashion’s biggest names — Gucci, Fendi, Dior — are set to appoint new creative leaders. Others — Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford — are preparing for new creative debuts. Shall we call 2025 the year of fashion’s big creative reset?
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At Gucci, which is currently without a creative director following Sabato De Sarno’s shock exit earlier this month, the new creative vision is pending. The brand kicked off Milan Fashion Week this season with a collection designed by its studio, pointing out in its show notes that ‘the fashion house is one that has many owners and guardians.’ Over the years, each Gucci creative director has brought a distinct vision to the house: Tom Ford brought sex appeal; Frida Giannini a more '70s-inspired take on femininity; Alessandro Michele did geek-chic eccentricity. Then, De Sarno took the house back to a more wearable, youthful mood. This latest collection had influences from all of them running throughout.
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Gucci described the clothes as ‘foundational’, looking at Gucci’s ‘codes and beliefs both past, present and future, things that have meant something to many, adopted and adapted in their own way.’ Models paraded around a giant interlocking GG complex — first introduced 50 years ago — wearing candy-coloured vinyl skirt suits; lace-trimed silk dresses and bodies in bubblegum pink, brat green and lilac; and velvet all-in-one full-body leotards monogramed with Gucci's GG logo. The house's signature horsebit motif was super-sized and woven in throughout, too, and worn as belts, dangling pendants, and as a neck-tight choker.
Later that day, Alberta Ferretti celebrated a new beginning with the debut of Lorenzo Serafini, who succeeded Alberta Ferretti in September after she announced she was stepping down from her brand after 43 years. Serafini, who has spent a decade at the brand's sister label Philosophy, is more than familiar with the brand's DNA — Ferretti herself sat front row, in a show of support for her successor.
His first collection for the house's mainline was a lesson in Italian elegance: a largely neutral colour palette of monochromes, browns and greys was punctuated with pops of pink, red, and electric blue. Chiffon ruffled dresses and and capes were shown beside silk gowns and luxurious outerwear pieces that screamed "I'm Expensive!" in a very sophisticated way. The collection was titled 'Progressive Romantics', all about 'the essence of romance, reimagined.' It's fair to say that Serafini nailed his brief.
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