We've all nicked ourselves shaving, or had a bad waxing experience and vowed to look into permanent hair reduction, right?
But the idea of it - the cost, the pain, the effectiveness - can be off-putting. Laser hair removal of the past was very painful, not always terribly effective, and couldn't get right into some of your nooks and crannies... if you get our drift.
Laser hair removal today, however, is your friend. Still an investment, yes, but for some respite from the hassle of razors? Worth it.
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Everything You Need To Know About Laser Hair Removal
What is laser hair removal?
Laser hair removal is a long-lasting form of hair removal using lasers to target and essentially destroy hair follicles, meaning nothing can grow from there anymore.
How does laser hair removal work?
'The laser targets multiple hair follicles in about a fraction of a second,' says cosmetologist and skin specialist Leyla Yusupova, who uses the Fibra DFA Laser at her clinic in Chelsea. 'The laser ensures the hair follicles are permanently destroyed so the hair growth reduces and, eventually, does not grow again.'
To touch on the science of it all, 'the laser emits a specific wavelength of light that is absorbed by the pigment (melanin) in the hair. The absorbed light energy is then converted into heat which destroys the hair follicle and the surrounding tissue,' explains Maria Dinopoulos, clinic director at Pulse Laser Clinic.
'Laser hair removal is most effective during the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle. Not all hairs are in the same phase at any given time, which is why multiple treatments are needed to target hair in different growth stages.'
Machines of old were unable to treat beyond your knicker line, meaning a more thorough brazilian (or beyond) wasn't possible, but modern machines can treat the more sensitive areas too. They also have a specially designed cooling tip, meaning as the intense heat hits your skin, it's counteracted by the cold as it moves around your skin.
What are the benefits of laser hair removal?
When it comes to laser hair removal, the advantages are tenfold when compared to other methods, especially for those of us whose routines err on the side of, well, laziness.
For starters, it's less pain and more gain (in the long run), and only a small investment of your time. With other hair removal methods, like shaving or waxing, you'll see hair regrowth after a few days or weeks. Whereas, 'laser hair removal is relatively quick, involves minimal discomfort and can offer permanent hair reduction over time with consistent treatments,' says Dinopoulos.
It's also an investment as you'll see yourself saving money. An average woman in 10 years will spend over £4000 waxing their underarms and bikini line.
While you probably didn't expect the word eco-friendly to pop up here, laser hair removal is actually a much more sustainable hair removal option for those looking to minimise their plastic and single-use waste (cough, disposable razors).
A round of treatment will also neutralise the chances of irritated skin, bumps and rashes, as well as painful ingrown hairs. 'Laser hair removal typically reduces the appearance of ingrown hairs since it removes the hair from the follicle,' adds Dinopoulos.
How long do laser hair removal results last?
'I would always refer to laser hair removal as permanent hair reduction,' says Nilam Holmes, Alma ambassador and skin expert. 'We have millions of hair follicles in different growth cycles, so it is almost impossible to treat every single follicle, so you might experience occasional sporadic hair growth here and there.'
The longevity will fluctuate between clients due to hormonal differences, health, medication, hair density and colour, but, 'you can achieve up to 80-90% reduction in hair growth after a course of treatments,' says Anna Harvey, Thérapie Clinic Skin & Laser Specialist.
Your best chance at keeping hairs gone for good is to go for top-up treatments when your beauty therapist recommends it.
How long does laser hair removal take?
On average, 4-6 weeks for face treatments, and 6-8 weeks for the body. Actual sessions can be as short as 15 minutes for small areas like the armpit, but can last up to an hour for large body parts, like legs or back.
'It's often referred to as a 'lunchtime procedure', because you can literally have it done during your lunch break and return to work right after,' says Jess Sedgwick, senior aesthetician at Montrose London.
Can any hair and skin type have laser hair removal?
Typically, laser hair removal is most effective for those with dark hair and lighter skin, because the laser targets the melanin in the hair. However, lasers of yesteryear were far lass advanced that today's smart machines.
'At Montrose London, we use Sciton's BroadBand Light (BBL) which is adaptable and suitable for a broad spectrum of skin and hair types,' Jess explains, caveating, 'though results can vary depending on individual characteristics.'
'Thanks to advanced settings and filters, Sciton BBL can be used safely on the majority of darker skin tones. I always recommended a personal consultation to determine the best approach based the client's specific skin and hair type.'
Does laser hair removal hurt?
If you'd asked us 10 years ago, yes. The burning heat sensation around your bikini line and the sensitivity that follows for days afterwards wasn't exactly appealing.
But, with modern machines, you'll hardly feel a thing. You might flinch once or twice at a feeling like a little 'ping' from an elastic band. But there shouldn't be any burning or bruising, even in the much more sensitive areas.
Is laser hair removal safe?
Absolutely. In the hands of an experienced professional, there's nothing to fear. 'I would always advise researching the type of laser used and ensuring it is regulated,' says Anna. 'At Thérapie Clinic we use Cynosure, which is an FDA approved, medical grade laser.'
'Client safety is of highest importance to us,' adds Nilam. 'The Alma Sporano Titanium (the laser they use) is FDA approved to treat all skin tones (even skin that has been self-tanned) safely and efficiently, giving us the flexibility to treat all skin types all year round. Plus, it combines three different laser wavelengths in one applicator, allowing us to treat the hair follicle at different depths, making it suitable for fine and light-coloured hairs.'
Can you get laser hair removal while pregnant?
Unfortunately, no. 'While there isn't any evidence that laser causes harm to the mother or the foetus, it is best to avoid laser during this time to be safe,' advises Nilam.
'Also, hair growth patterns can change during pregnancy and the skin becomes more photosensitive because of hormonal changes, so wait until after the birth to have treatment.'
'If you become pregnant mid-laser course, don't fret. It's okay to have a break, it won't disrupt the efficiency of your treatment. The only downside is the client may need one or two additional sessions to catch the hairs at the correct stage of the growth cycle.'
Is there any downtime after laser hair removal?
Some clients might experience mild redness, but this usually subsides within a few hours. You should avoid intense sunlight if possible but only for a fortnight. As hair regrows, the strands in the killed follicles will just fall out, so you might notice a bit of 'shedding'.
How much does laser hair removal cost?
It varies from clinic to clinic, and depends on the area of the body being treated and the number of sessions required. Generally multiple sessions are needed to achieve the best results, and prices can be lower per session if bought as part of a package deal. A lot of Groupon deals are available, but do your research as not all machines are created equal.
What should you do before laser hair removal?
'Firstly, ensure the areas are free of any false tan, tinted creams or lotions' says Anna. 'Secondly, shave the areas 24 hours before - you must not wax, pluck or thread for at least four weeks for the face or six weeks for the body before your treatment.'
'We would advise that laser hair removal is done at least two weeks before a sunshine holiday with SPF50 applied to the treated area to avoid hyperpigmentation,' says Nilam.
The dos and don'ts of laser hair removal:
- DO shave in between treatments. This is the best way to quickly remove hair without damaging the root. Your beauty therapist will shave anything you've missed before applying the laser to your skin, anyway, as any visible hair will only get singed otherwise!
- DO avoid sun exposure for a while after the treatment.
- DO wear a high factor SPF if time in the sun is unavoidable. After treatments, skin becomes more sensitive to UV rays, so always slather it in a high factor sunscreen to protect it from things like hyper pigmentation and sensitivity.
- DO exfoliate the area gently as it encourages the dead roots to fall out after every treatment and will make your skin look less bumpy and shadowy.
- DO apply a soothing gel or use ice packs if you experience any discomfort or swelling after treatment.
- DON'T apply heavy make-up or products for 24 hours after your laser treatment to avoid clogging the skin and causing breakouts.
- DON'T use saunas, hot tubs or take hot showers for 24 to 48 hours after treatment.
- DON'T wax, epilate or pluck your hair in between treatments as it removes the hair from the root. Lasers work because they are attracted to the hair's pigment underneath the skin and if it is completely gone, there won't be anything there for the laser to zap. If this is the case, you might have to wait up to another four weeks for the root to re-form until you can be treated again.
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Chloe Woodland is the Group Beauty Assistant at , , and , working across print and digital features. She’s worked in the industry for two years, beginning her career writing for trade publications and Professional Beauty. When she’s not demystifying the science behind growing your hair, gathering the best make-up products of all time or investigating buzzy skincare ingredients, you’ll most likely find her rewatching Modern Family for the thousandth time or trying to tame her two working cockers (who’ve never worked a day in their lives).