As ELLE UK’s beauty editor, I’m privileged to have access to the best facials and the finest practitioners the industry has to offer. As a beauty editor who has first-hand (and extensive) experience with painful adult acne, I also know just how tricky it is to navigate the hands-on side of facial treatments. Ironically, the one question I get asked most when it comes to acne is ‘have you tried a facial?’, second only to ‘should I get a facial for acne’?
My answer to both is: yes, and yes, but with extra caution. Social media will have you believe that all facials leave you with plumped-up, glass skin but personally, I’ve found that certain protocols made my acne-speckled complexion feel sore and look even more inflamed; not quite the result one wants from any facial.
But that doesn’t mean that a facial isn’t useful. Like everything else in skincare, it’s all about nailing down what’s right for your complexion’s needs; there really is no one-size-fits-all.
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How Do Facials Help With Acne?
First things first, facials for acne are generally best for skin support to manage blemish-prone skin. ‘Facials are best thought of as supportive or complementary therapies that work alongside medical interventions, as acne is a medical not cosmetic concern,’ says consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, Dr Anjali Mahto.
Depending on the severity of your acne, oral medication and laser therapies are likely the best way to tackle it. ‘Facials can work particularly well in conjunction with these more advanced interventions by creating a healthier skin environment and supporting barrier function,’ adds Mahto.
What Are The Best Facials For Acne-Prone Skin?
Medical-grade facials are best, particularly those geared towards managing acne and congested skin. These are treatments performed by certified skin experts and focus on going deeper within the skin surface to tackle specific concerns.
‘These facials should focus on calming inflammation, gently exfoliating dead skin cells, and supporting hydration without clogging the pores,’ says Dr Mahto, who recommends gentle chemical peels with salicylic or glycolic acid, exfoliating treatments such as Hydrafacial, the Fire and Ice facial (alternating warm and cool sensations to minimise breakouts and calm redness), and manual extractions from an experienced expert to avoid unwanted scarring.
Senior aesthetician India Bonwick at Montrose London agrees that easing inflammation is key. For mild acne, she suggests chemical peels such as the Obagi Blue Radiance, Sciton Broadband Light, Sciton Clear Silk and Hydrafacials.
For moderate to severe acne, both Bonwick and Mahto are fans of AviClear laser as it targets the sebaceous glands to reduce excess oil production.
The addition of LED light can help too. ‘Blue and red light can help reduce inflammation and the bacteria that contribute to acne,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘Whilst they may not treat the acne in its entirety, they can be adjunctive treatments which can be used at home as part of a good medical treatment plan.’
Personally, I have found acupuncture to be helpful when it comes to calming my own inflammation. A cooling protocol involving ice globes have also helped my own breakouts significantly.
What To Avoid When Seeking Facials For Acne Skin
Now that my active acne has calmed down, I’m enjoying sculpting facials that involve plenty of hands-on massage. But at the peak of my breakouts these protocols were painful, and made my complexion red and inflamed.
Bonwick agrees, adding: ‘I avoid treatments that cause unnecessary trauma to inflamed skin, such as microneedling, radiofrequency and needling, and aggressive resurfacing lasers. The priority should always be to calm inflammation before moving on to more intensive treatments.’
For Dr Mahto, she cautions against layering multiple fragranced ingredients on the skin's surface as it can risk irritation or worsen the underlying issue. Those with cystic acne should also seek medical advice first before booking into a facial.
What You Need To Know Before Getting A Facial For Acne Skin
- Understand the type of acne you have, whether it's comedonal (blackheads and whiteheads) or deeper cystic spots. Your practitioner should talk you through this during your consultation.
- Facials should never be seen as a cure for acne but rather as part of a wider, clinically led skincare journey.
- Comedonal acne often responds better to carefully curated facial treatments than cystic acne, particularly when they involve gentle exfoliation, hydration, and antibacterial support.
- Opt for an expert-led clinic, where the skin can be analysed professionally using tools such as VISIA imaging.
- Consistency and strategy are key, and having facials at the right intervals can help maintain the progress made with topical treatments or laser therapies.
Should You Get Extractions?
As someone whose skin has been made worse through poor extractions, and is prone to scarring, I opt out of them 98% of the time.
I’m not the only one who’s cautious. ‘While extractions can sometimes help in carefully selected cases, for example, with non-inflamed comedones, they do carry a high risk of damaging the skin if done too aggressively or without proper technique,’ agrees Dr Mahto, so don’t feel pressured to have them and do voice your concerns during your consultation.
If you are open to extractions (and there are plenty of practitioners who are well-versed in the art of it), you can always ask the facialist to try on one smaller blemish to see how you feel and how your skin reacts before they carry on.
Oh, and extractions shouldn’t make you cry on the treatment bed – trust me, I’ve learnt that the hard way.
Can Facials Worsen Acne?
While it is normal to appear slightly flushed after a treatment (it should subside within a couple of hours), the wrong techniques or unsuitable products can cause your acne to worsen.
‘Overly aggressive exfoliation, the use of comedogenic ingredients, and poor hygiene practices can all trigger breakouts or exacerbate existing lesions. Acne-prone skin requires a gentle, minimalistic approach,’ says Dr Mahto.
‘Any facial that leaves the skin feeling raw, overly stripped, or inflamed is likely to do more harm than good. This is why it’s so important to receive treatments within a clinical setting where every treatment is customised to the skin’s current condition and tolerance.’
The Post-Facial Care For Acne
A minimal approach to skincare, with a focus on strengthening the skin barrier and easing inflammation is key, especially within the first 24-48 hours. Try this post-facial routine:
- Use a simple, oil-free cleanser and a lightweight moisturiser with ceramides and skin soothers.
- Use an SPF50 suited for acne-prone skin.
- Avoid potent active ingredients such as exfoliating acids and retinoids.
- Avoid wearing make-up, or keep it to a minimal.
- If you notice any new scarring, seek advice early from a professional.
The Best Facials In London For Acne-Prone Skin
After trialling countless facials, these are the treatments, experts and clinics I turn to whenever my acne flares up.
- Ada Ooi, acupuncturist at 001 London
- Skinesis Bespoke Facial with LED at Sarah Chapman (the team is excellent with extractions)
- Bespoke To You Facial at Young Ldn
- Hydrafacial at Montrose Clinic
- The Skin Matters 360 with Joanna Evans at Skin Matters
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Medina Azaldin is the beauty editor of ELLE and Harper's Bazaar UK, working across print and digital features. She has more than seven years journalism experience and has previously written for Red and Good Hoousekeeping. When she's not demystifying the latest skincare ingredient, sniffing out the next big perfume trend or uncovering the science behind wellness practices, you'll most likely find her in Hatchards Piccadilly or watching a crime series with her cats. Oh, and she's a competitive cheerleader, too.