Believe what they say about Montreal in the winter: it’s cold. But it’s also beautiful—a winter wonderland transformed with lights and an infectious holiday spirit. The sharp sub-zero chill is the perfect counter to the city’s old-world charm; even if you’ve never been there, it somehow feels familiar. After a long February, there is really nothing better than the comfort a French onion soup and a glass of mulled wine, both of which happen to be available at the annual Montréal en Lumière festival, which kicks off today. To make the most of your trip, we put together a guide to the best restaurants, bars, and more.
What to See
Jean-Talon Market
Admittedly, I have a problem when it comes to visiting new cities: I want to move there immediately. I was quickly charmed by Jean-Talon Market, and imagined myself there every Sunday, my life transformed by Montreal’s easy way of living. A year-round destination, this iconic public market is packed with heated stalls brimming with local Quebecois delicacies, from artisanal cheeses to maple taffy, perfect to bring home for friends.
Quartier des Spectacles
Montreal’s premier cultural district, Quartier des Spectacles, is filled with sensory experiences for all ages. Event programming specific to the season includes a bustling holiday market and a skating rink. Home to the Place des Festivals and Place des Arts, the magnetic neighborhood pulses with the energy of theater, ballet, sculpture, and immersive light structures. Whether it’s high culture or kid-friendly play, Quartier des Spectacles has everything you’re looking for.
The Canadian Centre for Architecture
A perfect stop for a quiet and gray Sunday afternoon, the CCA is a must-see for architecture and design enthusiasts. Its exhibitions are as visually stunning as they are thought-provoking, and you can easily spend hours there just taking in the design of the space itself. The best part? The bookstore.
Where to Eat
L’Express
Everyone I know recommended this restaurant to me, and I understood why—everything about it was excellent! As it is often said of Montreal, this timeless eatery has the sensation of being set in the middle of Paris, with vibe that’s both intimate and energetic, unpretentious yet refined. The duck confit was a perfect dish, and I still think about the bread every day.
MARCUS Restaurant + Terrace
Possibly the most exquisite dining experience I’ve ever had, MARCUS is luxury encapsulated. Located in the Four Seasons Montreal, its sleek design and buzzing ambiance is enough to draw you in with sheer curiosity. The open terrace offers gorgeous views of downtown Montreal, while the service is impeccable. Boasting market-fresh ingredients, every bite of the Chef’s Table menu is delicious and unforgettable, even dishes you’re used to making at home (like heirloom tomato and burrata, for example). The signature dish of lobster and chili over fresh pasta is a must-order.
Fleurs et Cadeaux
Hidden in Montreal’s Chinatown, Fleurs et Cadeaux is a former flower shop-turned-restaurant and wine bar, recommended to me by a local. With tasteful décor and a warm and inviting atmosphere, it’s clearly a hot date spot, with intimate seating that feels cozy and not too crowded. Every dish is beautifully plated and bursting with flavor. I wish I could have tried everything.
Where to Drink
Bar George
Located steps away from downtown hotels and contemporary shopping, Bar George is housed in a beautiful historic mansion, blending Victorian opulence with effortless cool. Inside, the space is wood-paneled and moody, making it the perfect environment for a casual beer or fancy cocktail. Usually this type of British energy isn’t my cup of tea, but something about the stained glass windows and ornate furnishings really took my breath away, and I indulged. Try the Montreal Sour, made with rye, maple syrup, and a hint of citrus.
Atwater Cocktail Club
Much like Fleurs et Cadeaux, Atwater Cocktail Club is a sweet surprise—the stylish speakeasy-style bar promises an equally inventive and delicious cocktail for a romantic night out. The artisanal drinks are meticulously crafted with fresh, bold ingredients, like punchy pineapple and bright basil. Make sure you arrive early to grab a seat.
Dieu du Ciel!
For something more low-key, Dieu du Ciel! is a microbrewery known for its innovative small-batch brews. I’m a wine girl myself, so while this place admittedly wasn’t at the top of my list, the atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and it quickly proved to be somewhere you could stay for hours. I recommend a glass (or two, or three) of the Peche Mortel (French for “mortal sin”), an imperial coffee stout.
Where to Stay
Four Seasons Hotel Montreal
To put it plainly, the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal is heaven on earth. Gorgeously designed, the property is located at the heart of Golden Square Mile, easily accessible to everything, if you ever even want to leave. From the beautiful and quiet pool to the stunning restaurant and hotel spa, every aspect of the hotel is thoughtful and considered. After a day of walking around, I could not wait to go back to the deep soaking tubs. A sanctuary stay in the midst of a cold winter, the Four Seasons might just be the highlight of your trip.
Hotel Nelligan
Located in the heart of Old Montreal, Hotel Nelligan holds a mirror to its surroundings—it’s timeless and warm yet infused with a historical charm. Each room is more enchanting than the last, from the exposed brick in the lobby to the plush bedding in the hotel rooms, and, if you’re lucky, a view of the cobblestone streets outside. A gorgeous blend of history and elegance, Hotel Nelligan’s allure offers the promise of luxury.
Hôtel Monville
Modern and sophisticated, Hôtel Monville is known for both its sleek design and seamless convenience. A stone’s throw away from the Quartier des Spectacles, the contemporary hotel is thoughtfully designed, from its spotless rooms to its spacious and stylish common areas. If you’re looking for efficiency and tech-forward features, it strikes the perfect balance of no-fuss comfort and innovation.