Why Beauty Experts Love Foreign Sunscreen

As of the publish date, we have 17 approved UV filters in the U.S., the last of which was approved 25 years ago. However, companies only utilize a few of those 17—the rest are either too difficult to formulate or may cause side effects. On the flip side, there are over 30 filters actively approved and used in Europe, Korea, and Australia, nearly all of which, according to board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, MD, are longer lasting than their U.S. counterparts, and come with better broad-spectrum coverage and less potential for allergies and irritation. How exactly did this happen?

According to double board-certified dermatologist Karan Lal, MD, it’s largely the result of how governments classify and regulate sunscreen.

In the United States, sunscreens are deemed over-the-counter drugs and are thus limited to the FDA’s rules, regulations, and rigorous testing and approval processes. As Kelly Dobos, cosmetic chemist and professor of cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati, explains, sunscreens in the U.S. must meet the stringent criteria of being efficacious and safe enough for consumers to use without the guidance of a physician and a prescription. As a result, the data needed to apply for new sun filter approval is extensive, costly, and time-consuming.

Even if all the necessary paperwork and requirements are met, the FDA still needs to be consulted and give final approval. At least eight new sunscreen filters have been filed and awaiting FDA approval since 2002.

“The FDA moves extremely slowly to approve new over-the-counter drugs,” explains board-certified dermatologist and founder of REMEDY, Muneeb Shah, MD. “There have been several proposals that never went into effect, and no sense of urgency by the FDA to update the list.”

Then, there’s the whirlpool of misinformation surrounding sunscreen safety, which cosmetic chemist Joyce de Lemos, co-founder of Dieux Skin, says has made the American public’s perception of newer sunscreen filters difficult to predict.

It’s no wonder companies are hesitant to invest in launching new sun filters in the U.S.—an investment that hasn’t proven successful since the 1990s.

Meanwhile, in Europe, Asia, and other areas of the world, sunscreens are classified as cosmetics, like moisturizers or lipstick, and don’t need to adhere to the stringent regulations of over-the-counter drugs, making it far easier to gain approval. This means non-U.S. beauty brands can access more and better UV filters than their U.S. counterparts.

However, experts aren’t necessarily pushing the FDA to change the classification of sunscreen. “I support the classification of sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs because it ensures the products are legitimate,” Dobos explains. “They are held to higher standards for manufacturing, safety, and efficacy. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that there are drawbacks to this approach.”

The differences come down to cosmetic elegance and the nuances you can offer with better formulation options. Ultimately, more filter options allow foreign beauty brands to consider all skin tones and types and create formulas that better address particular concerns. But filters are just part of the story—albeit a large part. It’s also worth considering the historical use of sunscreens.

In the U.S., sunscreen was initially considered a beach product, so we prioritized water resistance, which resulted in heavier oil-water emulsions and a generally thicker consistency. Meanwhile, staying pale has always been a priority in Asian countries, so daily wearability was top of mind when formulating sunscreen for this demographic. While Asia has a long history of lightweight sunscreens, it simply wasn’t a priority for American brands or consumers until recently; because regular sunscreen use is a relatively new phenomenon in the U.S., we haven’t had the time to master it the way they have elsewhere.

On a similar note, U.S. sunscreen initially only protected against UVB rays exclusively—the type that actively burns the skin, which is why our SPF ratings refer to the amount of UVB protection provided. The term “broad spectrum,” which denotes that a sunscreen protects against both UVB and UVA rays proportionally, was only introduced stateside in 2011.

Meanwhile, European sunscreens have a history of providing both UVB and UVA protection and higher broad-spectrum standards than American sunscreens, which use a simple pass/fail model in testing. A 2017 study analyzing the UV-blocking abilities of U.S. sunscreens found that while 19 out of 20 products met the U.S. standards for broad spectrum, only 11 met European standards.

If you find yourself in Europe or Asia, it might be worth checking an extra bag dedicated to those coveted foreign sunscreen formulas. As for obtaining them stateside, it’s a bit less straightforward.

While there are many ways to buy foreign sunscreens in the United States, the authenticity of these products is always in question, Dr. Shah explains. It’s incredibly difficult to authenticate these products and even more challenging to know if they’ve been stored in appropriate conditions instead of a hot warehouse. There’s also little recourse if something goes wrong when buying products from overseas, further complicating the issue. That doesn’t mean these formulas are impossible to find, though.

“I would say that your best bet is to purchase directly from the brand’s website if possible,” de Lemos suggests. “Otherwise, do your research and make sure that the distributor buys directly from the brand. I would stay away from websites like Amazon and eBay unless being sold on the brand’s own marketplace page.”

However, there are a select few reliable retailers from which U.S. residents can purchase foreign sunscreen options, like Olive Young, Care to Beauty, Stylevana, and Cult Beauty. That being said, shipping times can vary greatly.

With subpar sunscreen formulations and little innovation, American sunscreen options are disadvantaged. “As dermatologists, we are frustrated that we cannot get these amazing sunscreen filters that allow for elegant products and enhance compliance,” Dr. Lal shares. “I understand the FDA’s concern and process, but at the same time, we have a lot of data from Europe and Asia.”

Dr. Cheung echoes his sentiments, posing a poignant question: “We’re left to wonder, if better products are available, with a long record of safety, why shouldn’t our patients have access to them?”

Jessie Cheung, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and ELLE Beauty Advisory Board member.

Karan Lal, MD is a double board-certified dermatologist and ELLE Beauty Advisory Board member.

Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist and professor of cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati.

Muneeb Shah, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of REMEDY.

Joyce de Lemos is a cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Dieux Skin.

As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, Danielle Cohen spoke to board-certified dermatologists, trusted cosmetic chemists, and researched the market for the best foreign sunscreens you can access in America.

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