Learning the ABCs of skin care comes naturally when you’re dealing with one of the most stubborn issues: (a)cne. When rough and bumpy texture takes residence on your skin, experts swear by the benefits of gentle exfoliants in the AHA category (glycolic and lactic acid); congested skin can benefit from those in the BHA family (salicylic acid). Moving down the alphabet, treatments for brighter, smoother, and softer skin also require hydration (hyaluronic acid) or even niacinamide. We could stop there, but then we’d overlook an important ingredient a few letters down: tranexamic acid.
While the ingredients mentioned above have reached cult status for their work in improving texture, fading discoloration, and hyperpigmentation, tranexamic acid is a lesser-known yet just-as-powerful tool in doing the same. Even better, tranexamic acid is gentle enough to be used with other potent acne- and hyperpigmentation fighters—but more on that below. To get the low-down on the impressive results that tranexamic acid can offer various skin tones (yes, even sensitive skin), we polled Dr. Dara Spearman, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Radiant Dermatology Associates, about best practices and the perfect skin care layer when using the ingredient.
What is tranexamic acid?
“Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine,” Dr. Spearman says. It exists in the family of other commonly used brightening skin care agents—vitamin C is one—but operates as an inhibitor. “In skin care, it’s used primarily for its brightening benefits, helping to fade discoloration, dark spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the interaction between UV light and pigment-producing cells in the skin, essentially calming melanin production to even out tone over time,” she adds.
Who is this ingredient best for? Who should avoid it?
If you’ve found stronger, more potent pigment-fading ingredients, like retinol or vitamin C, harsh, Dr. Spearman says, tranexamic acid is a gentle alternative. “Tranexamic acid is great for anyone dealing with hyperpigmentation, melasma, or acne scarring, especially those with sensitive skin who may not tolerate stronger ingredients, like hydroquinone,” she explains. As always, introducing a new ingredient into your routine typically comes with its fears, but Dr. Spearman maintains that tranexamic acid “is generally well tolerated by all skin types,” but warns that those with allergy-prone skin should consult a dermatologist before experimenting.
What other ingredients can be paired with it? Which shouldn't?
Fortunately, tranexamic acid is a team player that can be paired with most corrective formulas. “It plays well with other brightening agents like niacinamide, vitamin C, kojic acid, and licorice root, and can even be layered with retinoids if your skin can tolerate it,” Dr. Spearman shares. However, it’s best to titrate the ingredient with other formulas to avoid damaging your skin barrier or worsening acne breakouts.“I would be cautious about layering too many actives at once, such as strong acids or exfoliants, especially if you’re new to tranexamic acid. The goal is to brighten without over-sensitizing the skin,” she says.
How often can you use tranexamic acid in a week?
“Most people can use it once or twice daily, depending on the formulation, whether it’s in a serum, cream, or even a mask. Because it’s gentle enough for regular use, consistency is key to seeing visible results over time, especially for stubborn pigmentation,” Dr. Spearman adds.
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As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, beauty commerce editor Nerisha Penrose consulted a dermatologist to learn about tranexamic acid and the best products containing the ingredient.
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