The graduated bob likely calls to mind the nostalgia of the ’90s, when the inverted, ultra-sharp crop was as omnipresent—and as revered—as skinny brows and overlined lips. Fast-forward to today, and the once-blunt, razored cut is having its moment again, this time softened for the new season.
Need real-life inspo? Look to Lily Collins, who recently stepped out with a Posh Spice–inspired bob, and to Victoria Beckham herself—an early champion of the cut—who’s reimagined it with airy layers and subtle waves.
Below, ELLE spoke with Mark Hayes, international creative director at House of Sassoon, about how to cut, style, and wear the nostalgic crop now.
What is a graduated bob?
“The graduated bob is the ultimate power haircut. It’s cut shorter in the back and becomes gradually longer in the front, tracing the jawline,” Hayes explains. “A lightly graduated crown keeps it effortlessly chic and accentuates the natural shape of the head.”
The hairstyle originated in the ’60s, defined by geometric precision, bold lines, and sharp structure before being popularized years later by the likes of Victoria Beckham and Keira Knightley. “Today, the cut remains as relevant as ever,” Hayes says, noting that it’s now slightly less sharp—think longer front layers and softer waves. “It’s flattering, stylish, and endlessly versatile.”
How to cut a graduated bob
Precision matters, even if you choose a more subtle take on the trend, and that often means employing a “twist-cut” technique—cutting hair at an angle to form a diagonal line.
“The genius lies in the fact that the graduated bob isn’t just a haircut; it’s architecture,” Hayes explains. “You have to cut carefully, ensuring the shorter back and the longer, face-framing front work together to enhance bone structure, add volume, and create a dynamic shape.”
The style suits virtually every hair type and face shape. “It flatters oval, heart, and round faces, adding balance and sharpening features,” he notes. It works best on fine to medium textures: “The layers help create the illusion of thickness and bounce, giving even the limpest locks a major boost.”
How to style a graduated bob
Hayes calls the latest iteration a soft layered bob—a gentler, more fluid spin on the clean lines that epitomize the graduated cut, with layers that add effortless movement.
“To create it, use a round brush and a volumizing mousse for that stacked effect at the back,” he says. “Then straighten your ends for a polished, glass-like finish—or add soft waves for a modern, lived-in look. All hair types will benefit from a texturizing spray, a deep-conditioning mask, and a glossing serum for ultimate shine,” he adds.
